Pat McKay RAW FOOD Basic Recipe
Our own domestic cats and dogs must eat live food just as carnivores
do in the wild to be at their optimum health.

The Raw Food Basic Recipe for preparing meals for your cats and dogs
75% raw ground meat and 25% raw ground or steamed/mashed
To prepare one cup (8 ounces) of food: 3/4 cup (6 ounces) of raw meat
and 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of vegetables.

To prepare a larger amount: 6 cups (3 pounds) of raw meat to 2 cups (1
pound) of vegetables.

You may prepare sufficient amounts for your family of animals on a
daily basis or you may prepare large amounts and freeze it in packages
containing enough for their daily food.

You may have an animal that eats 1 tablespoon a day or you may have
an animal that consumes 6 cups a day. No matter what the size of your
animal the 75/25 proportions remain the same.

Proteins, the best to feed are: Raw egg yolks, beef, lamb, chicken,
turkey, buffalo, venison, elk, emu, ostrich, all fit for human

Vegetables, the best to feed are: broccoli, zucchini and any other winter
or summer squashes, kale, chard, Romaine lettuce, Chinese cabbage,
celery, asparagus, and pumpkin. (Even canned pumpkin is fine as long
as the label says 100% pure pumpkin.) (If you have a healthy animal,
you may include root vegetables including carrots, sweet potatoes,
beets, etc.)

For supplements, my suggestion is to call Jan Naud, 818-261-6963 and ask her about Bio-Calc-Powder, Bio-Calc-Capsules, and Cod Liver Oil softgels that she has available. Other supplements may be needed for animals who are ill; however, they should be selected with great care, because often you could be feeding and/or giving energy to the very bacterium, virus, or fungus that your animal's body is fighting. The only foods that should pass your cat or dog's lips are raw meat, raw egg
yolks, raw poultry, raw or steamed vegetables and supplements. All food
should be for human consumption.
Any food labeled for animals cannot
be trusted. Even the companies producing raw foods for cats and dogs have
filler ingredients. Do not believe the marketing ploys of animal food
BONE is a four-letter word: The reason you cannot feed the bones of
farm animals is because they are not fresh kill. Prey that they catch in
the wild is raw, fresh and alive. The bones are still soft, supple,
hydrated and full of nutrients. Bones from farm animals have been
dead for days, weeks, or months. Rigor mortis sets in right after death
and the bones become hard, brittle, dehydrated; the nutrients are dead
and gone. What is left is a gritty substance that causes severe
pancreatitis, leaky-gut, irritable bowel, impacted bowel, chalky and
bloody stools, diarrhea, constipation, all of which are devastating to the
gastrointestinal system. Yes, you can occasionally give SOME dogs or
cats bones for dessert; however, people often take things to the
extreme, give them as a meal and give them too often. After what I
have seen in the past several years, I am now opposed to feeding
bone…ground or whole…except an occasional bone for dessert to chew
on for pleasure. And even that needs to be evaluated depending on the
individual dog/cat, how voraciously s/he goes after the bone, whether
that particular dog/cat can digest it, and what it looks like when it
comes out the other end. If there are any digestive problems, do not
give bones. If there are any chalky or bloody stools, diarrhea or
constipation, do not give bones.
NO bones of any kind, whole or ground, should be fed to cats and dogs
as part of their main meal. The main meal should be 75% raw meat
and 25% raw or steamed vegetables. As a part of the 75% meat, 20%
of that should be organ meats: heart, liver, kidney, spleen, gizzards,
and 20% should be fat and/or skin. So the breakdown is 35% muscle
meat, 20% organ meat, 20% fat, and 25% vegetable (carbohydrates).
These percentages are a guideline. It is not essential that each meal be
to exact proportions.

The only treats that should be given to your cats and dogs are tiny
pieces of raw meat. For training purposes, you may give tiny pieces of
roasted meat, because it certainly isn't convenient to carry raw meat in
your pocket.
The following are a list of No-No's for dogs and cats:

NO grains, cereals, bread, rice, pasta, dairy, fruit, yeast, pork, rabbit,
soy, ground bone, bone meal, egg shells, alfalfa, kelp (or any other
herbs), canned/dry foods, dehydrated foods, commercial cat/dog treats,
milk bones, rawhide, pigs' ears, nylabones, etc.

NO vegetables with hulls (peas, corn, beans, etc).

NO nightshade vegetables: white potatoes, raw tomatoes, eggplant,
peppers, or iceberg lettuce or raw spinach. (Steamed spinach is fine.)
When dogs or cats have an illness of any kind,
NO root vegetables (carrots, potatoes, beets, etc). Later on when
symptoms are gone, some cats or dogs may have some root vegetables
depending on their body's response to them.
For all dogs and cats:
NO drugs, chemicals, or poisons, including vaccines, frontline,
advantage, advantix, program, heartgard, antihistamines, antibiotics,
rimadyl, benadryl, flagyl, steroids, etc. Natural solutions to all of these
drugs, chemicals, and poisons are available.

There are always exceptions to the above No-No's, so if you have any
specific questions, I am happy to answer them for you.

Copyright 2008, 272 Lucille Drive, Walker Lake, NV 89415


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